|Name:||PROPAGACION DE OLEAJE DESDE AGUAS PROFUNDAS A SOMERAS, INTERACCION CON LAS CORRIENTES Y EFECTOS DE CAPA|
The aim of this Project is to study numerical and theoretically the propagation of non linear waves from deep to shallow waters, and the implications for the sediment transport through the coupling with the bottom boundary layer. More specifically, the goal of this Project will be to explore alternative forms of the lower order fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations with the weakly nonlinear performance improved to very deep water, with the constraint that the highest order of derivatives to be kept at three. This will be achieved by manipulating and replacing the higher order terms with a combination of lower order temporal and spatial derivatives. The weighting parameters will be determined so that the linear dispersion and shoaling performance of the equations properly represent those of Airy wave theory in deep waters and, similarly, so that the weakly nonlinear performance is also improved to deeper waters. The new set of equations will be modified to include the damping induced by the bottom through the inclusion of the boundary layer effects. The new set of equations for water wave propagation will be tested with available “state of the art” experimental data after the development of a 2D numerical model for resolving these modified set of equations taking care of the efficience and stability of the numerical code. In order to explore the nonlinear interactions between waves and currents the effects of the mean current on the wave propagation will be investigated and results will be compared with a new experimental set-up designed for this purpose. The sediment transport will be studied using the new model by coupling the sediment conservation equations and the model developed. We will focus this last task specifically to the problem of sand bar movement under waves and waves and currents. Using a new experimental set-up for the measurement of stresses under waves and currents we will test the accuracy of the bottom shear stress provided by the numerical model developed.
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