Seminar: Recent advances in modeling of wave impacts on complex coasts

  • Speaker: Ad Reniers, head of the Environmental Fluid Mechanics section within the department of Hydraulic Engineering at Delft University of Technology.



Foto: Ad Reniers.



Esporles, may 10, 2017. Most modeling efforts of wave impacts on coasts are restricted to sandy beaches. However, in reality many beaches are much more complex due to the presence of vegetation, coral reefs, hard structures, gravel or a combination thereof.


In my presentation I will start with the description of the incident waves, the generation and propagation of infragravity waves and Very Low Frequency motions by wave groups on a sandy coast using XBeach.


This will be followed by the introduction of additional modeling concepts to successfully simulate the wave impacts on more complex coasts.


Examples include the effects of vegetation on the wave transformation and set-up, the modeling of wave impacts and runup on fringing coral reefs.


Model results will be compared with observations and elucidated with animations.


Future developments will also be discussed.


Ad Reniers is the head of the Environmental Fluid Mechanics section within the department of Hydraulic Engineering at Delft University of Technology. Prior to that he worked for a combined 10 years in the US at the Naval Postgraduate School in Monterey and the Rosenstiel School at the University of Miami. He has also worked for over 10 years at Deltares, formerly known as Delft Hydraulics, and Delft University. He has combined numerical modeling, laboratory experiments and comprehensive field experiments to further our understanding of nearshore hydro-and morpho-dynamics. He has participated in many international field experiments, including US-funded Duck 94, Sandy Duck, Ripex, NCEX, RCEX, ECORS, RIVET1 and 2, GLAD and SCOPE. In addition, he has been involved in numerous EU-funded research programs including MaST-G8M, SAME, SCAWVEX, SAFE and MEGAPEX to develop morpho- and hydrodynamic modeling capability during moderate and extreme wave conditions.  His laboratory experiments on longshore current generation have been instrumental in understanding the dynamics of shear instabilities. He has contributed to the development of state of the art open source numerical models such as DELFT3D and XBEACH to examine the depth-averaged and three dimensional flow circulation in the nearshore with emphasis on rip-currents and coastal erosion. He was the first to explore the effects of wave groups on the generation of rip-channels on barred beaches, establishing a relation between nearshore vortical motions at 10 minute time scales and rip spacing. His present research focuses on coastal safety, with emphasis on dune erosion and overwash, rip currents, and the origin and fate of suspended and floating matter within the nearshore with relevance for human health, swimmer safety, ecology and water quality.


Together with Prof. Dano Roelvink he has authored the book ‘A Guide on Modeling Coastal Morphology’ with and has published over 75 peer-reviewed research papers. He is a member of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering Council and the Advisory Board of the Journal of Coastal Engineering.


Date and Time: Thursday, may 11, 11:30-12:30h

Place: IMEDEA Seminar Room